What to Do in Zimbabwe: From Bulawayo to Hwange National Park
The next part of our Botswana and Zimbabwe adventure takes us a little further into Zimbabwe where we hear more of the country’s history and visit one of its most famous National Parks, Hwange.
First, we head to Bulawayo in the south west, whose name means “Place of killings” in the language of the indigenous San People.
Close to Bulawayo we find the UNESCO World Heritage site, Matobo National Park. The National Park is famous for its rhino which you can track on foot, its dramatic scenery of balancing rock “kopjes”, ancient San rock art, as well as being the final resting place of Cecil Rhodes.
Rhino Tracking in Matobo National Park: What It’s Like
We set out on foot with our local guide to meet up with some rangers who are going to take us rhino trekking.
I’ve done this once before in Uganda, and to be honest I find it a little staged, but I understand the reason behind this kind of activity. Rhino are in constant danger of being hunted, so in many conservation areas they have their own team of anti-poaching rangers, who follow them around as an armed escort.
These are still wild rhinos, the guards do not interact with them. But much like the Mountain Gorillas in Uganda, they have become desensitised to humans, seeing us as neither food or threat, they will simply ignore us as long as we remain quiet, and move slowly at a respectful distance.
It means you can get very close on foot, and the tourist money that comes from this, helps to fund the anti-poaching teams.
So, it’s all for a good cause, and to stand within a few meters of a family of white rhinos can be incredibly exciting.
Exploring Matobo Hills: San People, Rock Art and History
Once we have said goodbye to the rhino and their rangers, we begin a walk into the Matobo Hills, and our guide tells us of the San People who were the original inhabitants of this land.
They are generally no more than a meter in height, and have a very unusual language which is a series of clicking sounds.
They are thought to be one of the world’s oldest continuous cultures, and have inhabited the area for the last 20,000 years.
They were hunter/gatherers, whose weapon of choice was a poison tipped arrow, which acted as a tranquilliser.
They lived in caves with family groups of up to around 30 people, and their witch doctors did cave paintings as a way of communicating with other tribes.
They would mix eland blood with ground rock, and use Guinea Foul feathers for brushed.
Our guide shows us examples of these ancient paintings as we continue on our walk.
Did you know that San People traditionally only have two baths in their entire lifetime, once when they are born and again when they die?
Cecil Rhodes and Zimbabwe’s Colonial History at Matobo Hills
To end our day, we visited a lookout where we sat beside the grave of Cecil Rhodes and listened as our guide weaves stories of King Shaka Zulu and King Lobengula.
Of how Rhodesia was formed, and how it later became Zimbabwe. Of diamond mines and mineral rights, of achievements and exploitations.
Our guide told us of a man, one of eleven children, born in Hertfordshire, to an English vicar and his wife.
Young Cecil was removed from school at 16 and was sent to live with his brother on a cotton farm in South Africa. Cecil had a hole in his heart, and the African air was thought to be better for his health.
He soon turned his hand to diamond mining, and by the age of 21 he was a millionaire. He founded the De Beers mining company aged 27 which dominated the world’s diamond industry for the next century.
By the age of 37 he was the Prime Minister of The Cape Colony.
To enhance his power, Rhodes persuaded King Lobengula to sign The Rudd Concession in 1888. But the King was illiterate, and did not know he was signing away his country’s mineral rights.
By the age of 42, Rhodes had established Rhodesia, a country named after himself.
In his late 40’s, Cecil knew he was dying, and he wished to choose his own burial site. He agreed that on his death, the land in this area would be given back to the local people.
In return, they would allow him to be laid to rest alongside his two closest companions, here in the Matobo Hills.
Our guide, who is a native of Zimbabwe, said that regardless of the politics, Cecil Rhodes was a part of his country’s history, and that visitors to the burial site brought much needed income to the local community.
So even in Zimbabwe’s most turbulent times, the site has continued to be protected.
It’s a peaceful and beautiful place and well worth the visit, especially if you have an interest in British Colonial History.
Where to Stay Near Hwange National Park: Hwange Safari Lodge Review
After a busy day, we arrived at our hotel for the next couple of nights, Hwange Safari Lodge.
The rooms are spacious, and there’s a great bar and restaurant. This is a family friendly property with easy access for game viewing in Hwange National Park, and only around three hours’ drive from Victoria Falls Airport.
But the property’s best feature is the large outdoor garden area which is only divided from part of the national park by a small fence and a livestock trench.
The trench is about two meters deep by two meters wide and prevents animals from crossing into the hotel grounds.
It means the elephants can be no more than a couple of meters from you with nothing impeding your view.
It almost feels like you are standing amongst them, it’s an incredible feeling.
Safari in Hwange National Park: Wildlife and Game Drives
The next day we are up and out very early for our morning game drive.
Hwange doesn’t disappoint, as we find lions, elephants and several types of antelope.
We don’t however find the elusive Wild Dog, otherwise known as Painted Dog. So, our guide takes us to the Painted Dog Conservation Centre.
Painted Dog Conservation Centre Zimbabwe: How Conservation Works
I am always very wary of these types of places, just in case they are an attraction, a way of profiting, rather than about actual conservation, but on this occasion I needn’t have worried.
This centre is a fantastic example of things being done right, and I found the whole thing quite moving.
It has a multifaceted approach to conservation that is having great success.
Community Conservation in Zimbabwe: Supporting Local People and Wildlife
To start with, you pay no entry fee, and the guide tells you politely from the outset that he will not accept tips, which is almost unheard of in Africa.
He takes us to see the dogs who are currently in their care. There are only two, “Lucky” a female who has visible injuries and apparently survived a lion attack, hence her nickname.
The other, also female, we are told is now recovered and awaiting release back into the wild.
They are in a huge compound within their natural habitat. And whilst we could see them, we had no other interaction with them.
The guide explains that other than medical necessity, they do not touch the dogs at all. He explains it’s imperative every dog is saved and released as there are now only seven thousand left in Africa.
Travel Tips for Zimbabwe: Currency and Visa Advice
Zimbabwe has massive unemployment and one of the highest inflation rates in the world so they don’t currently use their own currency.
US Dollar is widely accepted but The South African Rand and The Botswana Pula are often also accepted.
If you are struggling to get your photo to upload onto your Zimbabwe visa application, try saving your picture from Whatsapp as it reduces the file size to an acceptable size for the online form.