Arriving in Kyoto
Our journey began with a 12-hour flight from London Heathrow to Tokyo, followed by a short connection to Osaka and a one-hour bus ride to Kyoto. Even the airport toilets gave us an early taste of Japan’s quirks – clean, high-tech, and surprisingly entertaining!
We met our tour guide and the rest of our group on arrival, 41 of us in total, mostly in their 60s, with one mother and daughter duo aged 10 and 40-something. After checking into our comfortable hotel, we wandered the streets of Kyoto as lanterns began to glow, giving the city an enchanting feel.
We found a small traditional bar where we sat on the floor, removed our shoes, and managed to order drinks using smiles and Google Translate. Dinner that night was our first taste of teppanyaki dining – food cooked right in front of us on a hot plate. It was a fun, tasty and slightly chaotic start to our adventure.
Exploring Kyoto
The next morning, after breakfast, we set out to explore. Kyoto was once Japan’s capital and is surrounded by three mountains. It’s a beautiful city with a calm energy, traditional architecture, and no flashy signs; businesses are taxed by their frontage, so buildings are often tiny at the front but much larger inside.
We stumbled across a flea market selling everything from antiques to kimonos and quirky souvenirs, before stopping at a 7-Eleven to try the famous egg sandwiches (and a surprisingly good fruit yoghurt one too!).
In the afternoon, we joined a guided tour of Kyoto’s highlights, including the stunning Golden Pavilion, its gold leaf polished daily by hand. We also visited an old castle with “nightingale floors” that squeaked melodiously with every step, and the famous Gion district, home to Japan’s Geisha, or “Geiko” as they are called here.
We learned how to spot the difference between Maiko (trainee Geisha) and Geiko; Maiko wear long-sleeved kimonos and elaborate hairpieces, while Geiko’s are more understated. It’s considered rude to ask them for photos, so we admired them quietly as they passed by on their way to appointments.
Dinner that evening was in a tiny bar-restaurant where we ordered tapas-style dishes from tablets – delicious, inexpensive, and full of character.
Bullet Trains and Mount Fuji
Our next stop was Mishima, reached via Japan’s iconic bullet train. Even the stations are an experience – calm, quiet, and perfectly organised. The train left and arrived to the minute, covering the journey in just over two hours at nearly 300 km/h.
The following morning, we travelled towards Mount Fuji. Although it was cloudy at first, the scenery was beautiful, with lakes, forests, and gardens all around. We stopped at Lake Kawaguchi, where you can see Fuji on clear days, and visited the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum, a hidden gem filled with breathtaking hand-embellished kimonos.
We also discovered the joy of the 100 Yen shops (everything was about 50p!) and took a cable car up to a viewing point overlooking the mountain and lake. At the top, we rang the Bell for Love and threw pottery cups through a wooden knot for luck – very Japanese, and very charming.
Dinner that evening was an adventure of its own in a small local restaurant that specialised in chicken dishes, including raw chicken, which some of the group tried! Our hotel had an onsen spa with traditional nude bathing in natural hot springs, though I left that to the braver members of the group.
The next morning brought spectacular views of Mount Fuji in all its glory.
Coastal Towns and Tokyo
We travelled through the Hakone region, famous for its hot springs, before reaching Kamakura, a coastal town with surf shops, cafés, and a laid-back feel. We visited the Great Buddha and strolled along Komachi Street, filled with street food and craft shops. One British-themed shop even had a black cab, red phone box, and souvenirs of the Royal Family.
Arriving in Tokyo that evening, we treated ourselves to dinner at our hotel’s fine dining restaurant, enjoying a set menu of Wagyu beef, sushi, and tempura. It was incredible.
Tokyo Highlights
Our full-day Tokyo city tour coincided with a historic event – Japan’s first-ever female prime minister taking office. We visited the Imperial Palace Plaza and the peaceful Meiji Shrine, surrounded by trees planted a century ago.
Shibuya Crossing was just as iconic as expected – the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, yet remarkably orderly. Nearby, we saw the statue of Hachiko, the loyal dog who waited daily for his owner long after his death.
After lunch at a dim sum restaurant, we visited Asakusa Kannon Temple, where people fan incense smoke over themselves for good health and make wishes by throwing coins and bowing. We finished the day with stunning views of the city lights from the government building’s observation deck – completely free to enter.
Sumo, Shopping and Saying Goodbye
We had a free day in Tokyo and decided to watch a Sumo wrestling demonstration. It was great fun and surprisingly informative – I even got to have a go in the ring! Afterwards, I enjoyed a massage at the hotel spa on the 34th floor before heading out to see more of the city lights, Memory Lane, the 3D cat billboard, and Godzilla.
The following day, we flew home on a 14-hour direct flight, feeling that we’d only just scratched the surface of this incredible country.
Final Thoughts and Tips
Japan is vast, stretching 3,000 kilometres from top to bottom and made up of more than 14,000 islands. It’s modern and ancient all at once, and so beautifully clean and orderly.
Here are a few of my tips if you’re planning a visit:
Time difference: Japan is 8 hours ahead of the UK, my best tip is change your devices to local time when you board the aircraft and try to get into local time straight away, power through the first day.
Money: The Yen is weak, so everything felt great value. Dinner with drinks was often under £20 per person. I found most places accepted cards but not always the phone wallets ‘tap’ 7-Eleven ATMs are the best for cash withdrawals. Tipping isn’t expected and considered offensive! Tour guides though appreciate a tip for a good experience.
Etiquette: Bowing is common, shoes are often removed indoors (take plenty of socks), and learning a few words in Japanese is appreciated.
Transport: Trains are punctual to the second. Carry your hotel card for taxis (they dont speak/understand great English)and we used Uber in Tokyo with no problems.
Cleanliness: Japan is spotless; there are no bins, so you take your rubbish home (carry a spare bag with you). It’s considered rude to blow your nose in public
Food: Expect small dishes that arrive as they’re ready. Tap water is safe, and the vending machines are brilliant. There are lots of street food vendors but don’t walk and eat- its considered rude. Stand to the side or find somewhere to sit.
People: Polite, gentle, and incredibly respectful; they queue for everything and never rush.
Phones: I bought an e-sim card for my phone which worked great. I use Sim Local but there are other suppliers
We travelled with Riviera Travel, and our guide Daniel was excellent, supported by local guides in each city. Our group was large at 41 people, but headsets meant we could always hear commentary, and the pace was manageable for most.
The hotels were all lovely four-star properties in great locations, with buffet breakfasts offering both Japanese and international dishes.
This trip gave us an unforgettable introduction to Japan. From ancient temples and modern cities to bullet trains and sumo wrestlers, it was a journey that truly captured the spirit of this incredible country. I’d recommend visiting Japan at least once in your life, and for a first-time trip, an escorted tour is definitely the way to do it.