I recently had the chance to visit Banff in the Canadian Rockies with my son George and it was genuinely one of the best trips I’ve been on. Not to spoil it but I’m already planning on going back and if you read on – you’ll understand why.
From the moment we arrived, it felt like stepping into a postcard. Everywhere you look there are mountains. Not just in the distance, but in every direction. Banff sits right in the heart of the Rockies, and the scale of it all is hard to take in until you’re standing there.
This trip was the perfect opportunity for George and I to spend some quality time together, exploring somewhere completely different while he is taking a gap year.
First Impressions of Banff
Our first evening was fairly relaxed as we arrived quite late, but the next morning we were up early thanks to the time difference.
We headed out for a walk along the Bow River and down through Bow Valley to see Bow Falls. It was a beautiful, peaceful start to the trip. Snow covered the ground and the mountains surrounded us in every direction.
Banff itself is a lovely town. It’s compact and easy to explore on foot, with shops, cafés and restaurants all set against the dramatic backdrop of the Rockies.
Walking Through Johnston Canyon
One of our first organised activities was a guided hike through Johnston Canyon.
If you’ve ever seen photos of frozen waterfalls and icy blue pools in Banff, there’s a good chance they were taken here.
Walking through the canyon in winter was incredible. Frozen waterfalls hung from the rock faces and you could hear water flowing beneath the ice. The whole place felt calm, quiet and almost magical.
As we were leaving, we even saw ice climbers scaling the huge frozen walls — which looked both impressive and completely terrifying.
Visiting Lake Louise in Winter
Another highlight was visiting the famous Lake Louise.
Seeing it in winter is a completely different experience to the well-known summer photos of bright turquoise water. In winter the entire lake freezes over, and you can actually walk across it and it still feels slightly unbelievable even when you’re doing it.
George even built a snowman on the lake. The iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise sits overlooking the frozen lake, and the view with the mountains behind it is just stunning. Outside there were ice sculptures and an ice bar where we stopped for a drink, which felt very fitting given the surroundings.
Dog Sledding in the Rockies
One of the most memorable experiences of the trip was dog sledding.
We travelled to the nearby town of Canmore for the excursion and chose the self-drive option, which meant George actually drove our sled.
We were wrapped up in blankets in the sleigh while the dogs pulled us through the snowy trails, the run was around 10km. Our team of huskies, Thanos, Morticia, Tonic, Portabello, Coppermine and Maggie, were full of energy and clearly loved running.
You control the sled using simple commands:
- “Hike” to start
- “Easy” to slow down
- “Whoa” to stop
It was freezing cold but completely unforgettable. Watching George drive the sled while the dogs raced through the snow was one of those moments I’ll never forget.
Skiing in Banff
Banff is also a fantastic destination for skiing.
There are three main ski areas nearby:
- Banff Sunshine
- Mount Norquay
- Lake Louise Ski Resort
We chose Sunshine Village as it offers a great mix of runs and spans three different mountains.
I hadn’t skied for seven years and admittedly have a love-hate relationship with skiing , but it turned out to be the perfect place to get back into it. The conditions were amazing too – fresh snow overnight followed by bright sunshine and beautifully groomed pistes. It ended up being one of the best ski days I’ve had.
Exploring Banff Town
When we weren’t out on excursions, we spent a lot of time simply wandering around Banff.
The town itself is full of character, with independent restaurants, cosy cafés and shops selling everything from outdoor gear to Canadian souvenirs.
One discovery we made was Chuck’s Steakhouse, where I had one of the best steaks I’ve ever eaten.
Another essential Canadian experience was trying a BeaverTail – a fried pastry shaped like a beaver’s tail. Mine was the traditional cinnamon and sugar version, while George went all-in with chocolate spread, brownie pieces and white chocolate chips (which turned out to be extremely messy to eat!).
Culture and History in Banff
We also visited the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum, located along the Bow River.
I’ve always been interested in Native American and First Nations culture, and it was fascinating to learn more about the traditions and history of the indigenous peoples of the region. It’s set up in a distinctive log-fort style building beside the Bow River and it was also really noticeable how respectfully Canadian culture recognises and honours this heritage.
Another interesting stop was Park Distillery, the only distillery located within a Canadian national park. We took a tour and tasting, learning about how the spirits are made using incredibly pure glacier water from the surrounding mountains.
Taking in the Views from the Banff Gondola
One evening we rode the Banff Gondola up Sulphur Mountain. Once you reach the summit of Sulphur Mountain, you get sweeping views over Banff town, the Bow Valley and layers of mountains stretching in every direction. We went up in the late afternoon so we could see the sunset and stay for the evening light display, which included music and storytelling inspired by Indigenous culture.
Why Banff Feels So Special
Winter Banff has a different energy to summer. It feels quieter, calmer, and in some places almost hushed. Snow absorbs sound, so even popular spots can feel peaceful.
There’s also something about walking through a town where the mountains feel close enough to touch. You don’t need to be “doing” something constantly. Sometimes you just stop, look around, and that’s the moment.
Would I Go Back?
Absolutely.
Banff in winter was incredible, but I’d love to see it in summer too when the lakes turn that famous turquoise colour.
That said, there was something truly magical about the snowy landscapes, the crisp mountain air and the winter activities.
It was also incredibly special to share the experience with my son. Travelling together gave us time to talk, explore and enjoy somewhere completely different.
And judging by how much he loved it, there’s a good chance Canada might be calling him back again soon.
Banff in Winter FAQs (Heather’s Quick Answers)
Yes. Winter transforms Banff into a snowy mountain landscape with frozen lakes, quieter streets, and classic activities like skiing, dog sledding, ice skating and winter hikes.
Temperatures regularly drop below freezing, often between −5°C and −20°C. With proper layers, winter gear and sunshine, it’s surprisingly comfortable to explore.
Some highlights include the Banff Gondola, dog sledding, skating on Lake Louise, skiing at Banff Sunshine, and exploring frozen waterfalls at Johnston Canyon.
Absolutely. Many visitors don’t ski. Winter hikes, gondolas, wildlife spotting, scenic viewpoints, spas and cosy restaurants make Banff just as enjoyable without skiing.
Responsible operators focus heavily on dog welfare. The dogs we saw were healthy, energetic and clearly loved running. It’s worth checking the operator’s welfare policies before booking.
Yes. Lake Louise is spectacular in winter even if you don’t ski. You can walk across the frozen lake, go ice skating, or simply enjoy the mountain scenery.